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How To Repair Domrtic Fridge Rm 2811 Will Not Switch To Gas

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Gas Fridge Dometic RM 7401 problems


Usual disclaimer
I am not a Gas Fitter, I do not play around with LPG, and I have non posted to offset a flame state of war

Can someone shed a bit of light on a Dometic RM 7401 three way fridge problem

History is around March (seven months ago), prior to crossing the Nullarbor from east to due west, I must have purchased a bad bottle of gas somewhere
The fridge stopped working on gas, and I noticed the flame on the gas stove became very low

Removing the gas regulator, when I returned home, I noticed a mustard coloured fluid inside one of the pigtails
Setting up a manometer using compressed air, the regulator was only giving less than 5 inches of water force per unit area
A new regulator and pigtails cured this trouble

Returning home this month from a second trip, September (so not hot weather), once once again the fridge failed on gas, while coming across the Nullarbor from east to west

It works on 240 VAC
It will hold its own on 12 VDC
Both the stove and gas hot water heater are working OK
The regulator does still have xi inches of h2o pressure
Using an inspection camera shows a blue flame, and a make clean boiler chimney

It is booked in for a service simply there was a ii week wait

My theory is that the thermostat has failed or is blocked enough to slow the flow of gas to the boiler
The picture below shows what I think is the gas thermostat, as it has the gas lines going in from the bottles, and out to the flame
I notice what looks like 2 insulated (I assume live) and 1 bare end (I assume is an earth) wires

Can someone shed a calorie-free, how the thermostat works, and how should I bank check the wires with my multimeter, and so that I can eliminate the switch/circuit board, which I volition not exist able to admission without removing the fridge, as they are situated on top of the refrigerator

Whatever assist/guidance will be appreciated

RM7401 thermostat.JPG

�Edit to make the moving-picture show a flake clearer

RM7401 thermostat edit.JPG

-- Edited by Tony Bev on Monday 25th of September 2022 12:48:48 PM

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Hello Tony,
Practice whatever of the feeds from the gas bottle go via a safe/flexible hose? They tin break down & cake up the organization.
As the fridge works on power ok, the gas organization is definitely the culprit. I don't know how the thermostat works but I do know the jet hole is minuscule - you lot cannot come across through it. The only thing I'd suggest would be to remove the jet & boil information technology in water for virtually 10 minutes & see if that makes whatsoever difference.

Warren

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Hello Warren

New pigtail safety hoses came with new regulator about 7 months ago

I accept the normal 11 inches of water force per unit area after the regulator, which is after the pigtail hoses

I take had an inspection camera looking at the flame which appears blue
I am confident that the jet is OK

Without knowing how the gas thermostat works, I volition non touch it
Simply in case there are delicate parts in the main board, and I blow something while playing around

Below is a picture of this model fridge (for auction on Gumtree somewhere)
The electrical role of the thermostat is the punch on the right
I would have to remove the fridge to access this part

Thanks for trying to help

RM 7401 fridge.JPG

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The smaller fridges only unremarkably slide out
subsequently removing the screws belongings roofing boards round perimeter

I've replaced a few 12 elements over the yrs..(top right)

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macka17 wrote:

The smaller fridges merely normally slide out
subsequently removing the screws property covering boards round perimeter

I've replaced a few 12 elements over the yrs..(top right)


�Not sure exactly exactly what you mean Macca

Are y'all talking most the function, on the top right, of the height of the fridge, if then what is in there
The parts listing I looked at, has it down as a electronic control box

If yous are talking about the 12 volt heating element (fastened to the boiler), at the rear, top correct of the fridge, then I think that it is OK and working

This particular model has the belongings screws going through the sides of the fridge
The vehicle is a Jayco build, and does not have a front end fascia around the perimeter

Appreciate your input

RM 7401 fridge - Copy.JPG

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Gas fridges should not be used while running on the road. The consequences of refuelling at a servo near where some other vehicle is beingness refuelled with gas there is e'er the problem of a small gas cloud when an inefficient refueller removes the connexion from his vehicle.The gas is heavier than air and will waft forth at depression level and you have a pilot lite on. Information technology will happen one day. Years ago when fridges were only ii way I used to travel with the gas on. These days too risky. Promise you get your fridge sorted out with the gas problem. Use prissy heavy wire direct from the battery ,a fuse and an Anderson plug and your fridge will be colder than running it on gas and you and others volition be much safer. Thanks.

-- Edited by patrol03 on Tuesday 26th of September 2022 06:25:59 PM

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We have a Dometic 3 way fridge in our caravan bought new 5 years ago. It's a different model to yours but they're pretty much withal except for sizes.

Ours has stopped working on gas twice & 240V one time over the 5 years. We got ours stock-still by a gas fitter in Yeppoon when we were upwardly north a few months ago, cost us $70 cash in hand.

He cleared a blocked jet & re-aligned the flame which was out of alignment. Works very well now. He said that even just changing gas bottles can cause a blockage if a small particle gets loose in the system.

On the 2 other occasions that it bankrupt down we had it repaired & serviced past a caravan refrigeration specialist in Melbourne. Nosotros could of bought a new fridge with the money they charged.

Good luck with yours.

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patrol03 wrote:

Gas fridges should not exist used while running on the route. The consequences of refuelling at a servo near where another vehicle is being refuelled with gas in that location is e'er the problem of a small gas cloud when an inefficient refueller removes the connectedness from his vehicle.The gas is heavier than air and will waft along at low level and you have a pilot lite on. It will happen one twenty-four hours. Years agone when fridges were only two way I used to travel with the gas on. These days too risky. Hope you lot get your refrigerator sorted out with the gas problem. Utilize nice heavy wire direct from the battery ,a fuse and an Anderson plug and your fridge will be colder than running it on gas and you and others will exist much safer. Cheers.

-- Edited by patrol03 on Tuesday 26th of September 2022 06:25:59 PM


�Agree with you patrol03

I do not run with the gas canteen switched on, and the refrigerator seems to piece of work OK on 12 volt

The fridge is in a Jayco motorhome, and I am the first to admit that the 12 volt wires are, much too minor
Unfortunately for me, Jayco do not know where the wires become, one time they are backside the built in walls/furniture

Jayco could not sell me a wiring diagram, they looked for one for me, on their calculator
Their official (Western Australia) stance is, that because at that place are so many different models, they would accept to make a wiring diagram for each carve up model

Appreciate your input

-- Edited by Tony Bev on Tuesday 26th of September 2022 09:29:01 PM

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Desert Dweller wrote:

Nosotros have a Dometic 3 way fridge in our caravan bought new 5 years ago. It's a unlike model to yours simply they're pretty much withal except for sizes.

Ours has stopped working on gas twice & 240V in one case over the 5 years. Nosotros got ours fixed by a gas fitter in Yeppoon when nosotros were up north a few months ago, cost us $lxx cash in paw.

He cleared a blocked jet & re-aligned the flame which was out of alignment. Works very well now. He said that fifty-fifty simply changing gas bottles can cause a blockage if a pocket-sized particle gets loose in the organisation.

On the two other occasions that information technology broke downward nosotros had it repaired & serviced by a caravan refrigeration specialist in Melbourne. We could of bought a new fridge with the coin they charged.

Practiced luck with yours.


�It is already booked in for a service, so I will wait to see what the problem is/was

There are obviously non many spare parts in my part of the land

They volition do a service ($140), and so tell me what parts are required

I believe that i departure betwixt the 3 way fridges, is that my size, about 100 litres, only have a "SN" or "N" rating (Sub Normal, or Normal)
They are only practiced up to about 32�C ambient temperature

It appears that larger gas fridges take a "T" or Tropical rating, which I can not fit in to my motorhome, but those larger fridges are skilful for upward to most 42�C ambience temperature

I capeesh your feedback Desert Dweller

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Tony Bev wrote:
Desert Dweller wrote:

Nosotros take a Dometic iii fashion fridge in our caravan bought new five years agone. Information technology'southward a dissimilar model to yours but they're pretty much all the same except for sizes.

Ours has stopped working on gas twice & 240V once over the v years. We got ours stock-still by a gas fitter in Yeppoon when we were upward north a few months ago, cost the states $70 greenbacks in hand.

He cleared a blocked jet & re-aligned the flame which was out of alignment. Works very well at present. He said that even just changing gas bottles can crusade a blockage if a small particle gets loose in the system.

On the 2 other occasions that it bankrupt downward we had information technology repaired & serviced by a caravan refrigeration specialist in Melbourne. Nosotros could of bought a new refrigerator with the coin they charged.

Good luck with yours.


�It is already booked in for a service, so I will wait to see what the trouble is/was

There are apparently not many spare parts in my part of the land

They will practice a service ($140), and then tell me what parts are required

I believe that ane difference between the 3 fashion fridges, is that my size, nearly 100 litres, only have a "SN" or "Northward" rating (Sub Normal, or Normal)
They are only good upwards to nearly 32�C ambient temperature

It appears that larger gas fridges have a "T" or Tropical rating, which I tin can not fit in to my motorhome, merely those larger fridges are good for up to about 42�C ambient temperature

I appreciate your feedback Desert Dweller


That makes sense to us. Ours struggles when the temperature hits 30 degrees when its on gas. Fourth dimension to head for a caravan park, it�copes OK on 240V.

Forgot to say that nosotros had an extraction fan fitted & sail runway fitted for 90% shade cloth over the side that the fridge is on. Ours is the Dometic 90L.

The freezer section copes no matter what temperature it is but in the past the fridge section has failed us quite a few times & nosotros've had to ditch nutrient. The new measures have helped a flake.��

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Re (My theory is that the thermostat has failed )

I do not know if the Thermo. controls the temp on 240Vac.

We had problem with a dissimilar frig to yours when on Gas. Probably a grand child had played with the Thermo knob and you could turn it, just zippo would happen the shaft had been broken. Could be your trouble.

Peter

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PeterInSa wrote:

Re (My theory is that the thermostat has failed )

I do not know if the Thermo. controls the temp on 240Vac.

We had problem with a different frig to yours when on Gas. Probably a chiliad child had played with the Thermo knob and you could plow information technology, but nothing would happen the shaft had been broken. Could be your problem.

Peter


�From what I tin brand out, my temperature dial, goes to an electronic type box, which in plough controls both the 240 volt heating element, and the gas burner

The common pieces of both the 240 volt and the gas system are, the temperature punch, the temperature probe inside the refrigerator, and the electronic command box, (called Electronic Complete, in the parts section)

The 240 volt seems OK, this tells me (but I could be wrong, as I am not a Gas Fitter), that the problem lies in the, (what the part listing calls the) Gas Valve

I phone call this Gas Valve the thermostat, as it has the gas line from the gas bottle regulator going in, and the gas line to the gas burner, going out, and therefore must somehow adjust the gas to accommodate the temperature

I am only guessing about what the problem is

Thanks for your input Peter, it is appreciated

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A bit of an update

I had the gas side of the fridge serviced yesterday
Unfortunately when I picked the vehicle up, I only talked to the salesman, and not the Gas Fitter
He could only quote what was written on the invoice, which is as follows

Service Gas side of refrigerator. Clean ignition bespeak
Cleaned out Gas lines
Check pigtails
Cheque regulator for right pressure
Re-tested, all appears to be working correctly while in the workshop

I volition presume that, "Cleaned out Gas lines", means, that there may have been something in the gas lines

Since I last tried to use the fridge on gas, I have purchased a wireless thermometer, with three stations
Below are the temperatures I now accept, with the fridge prepare at around the iii quarter setting, (I do not accept numbers on my dial)
The fridge is empty, left open for a few hours to give me a ballpark temperature to first from, there is one beaker of water in the freezer, and the fridge door will not be opened during this examination

At the 17 hour mark, I noticed that the freezer, and fridge had started to warm up
From and so on it was an hourly check, (no drama as the wireless thermometer works from inside the house)

Just after the 24 hour reading, I went to meet what I could meet, which was zip
The flame was most the same every bit when the test was started, but the condenser was not as warm

I tried to meet if there was any 12 volt power to the "GAS VALVE", none on the correct side, but perhaps the rust of the positive connection was stopping the multi-meter probe from making a reading
I could non become the probe to the left hand connectedness
I gave the "GAS VALVE" a tap but in instance something had stuck. (it may exist a coincidence only at the 26 hour reading, the temperature in the freezer started to drop, but so did the ambient temperature

Still guessing that the "GAS VALVE" or what I would call the gas thermostat is the problem
I shall keep checking the temperatures on gas as the temperature of the freezer has definitely started falling

Afterward in a few days, I shall do the same test on 240 volt

Hoping that one of the techies can give me a clue, and will appreciate whatever guidelines

Fridge temperatures.png

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Tony Bev wrote:

<, I take purchased a wireless thermometer, with three stations

Tony, tin can y'all provide a link to this please ?

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Bill B wrote:
Tony Bev wrote:

<, I have purchased a wireless thermometer, with three stations

Tony, tin you provide a link to this please ?


�Hither nosotros are Pecker

My local Jaycar, (I assume all Jaycar shops)

The Wireless LCD Thermometer and Hygrometer model 90-0322 comes with i Thermometer Sensor in the packet

Here is the link to the in a higher place

Y'all then have to buy another two sensors model XC-0324 which are on the shelf close by

Here is a link to the above sensors

I as well brought ii Jiffy Boxes to put the fridge/freezer sensors in, and then that they would not exist damaged, when I am on the route
Jiffy box size 83x54x31mm, (the smallest I could use), I cut the 8 reinforcement bars out of the two long sides, to make the sensors fit
Non certain if yous would need the jiffy boxes, but they simply cost about $two.fifty each

Also the chief thermometer has its own temperature reading
If you only desire to read the fridge and freezer temperatures, from inside your Tug/RV/Firm/Awning, and so you would just need i actress sensor

Hope that this info is useful to yourself and others
It is certainly giving me an insight of what my three way fridge is doing

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Looking frontwards to a resolution here equally I have the same refrigerator, although it is currently working OK but you never know.
My thoughts - Is the piezo ignition active? Could some of that mustard coloured liquid have run through to the new jet and clogged it?
Adept luck.

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Wanderlust wrote:

Looking forward to a resolution here as I have the same fridge, although it is currently working OK merely yous never know.
My thoughts - Is the piezo ignition active? Could some of that mustard coloured liquid accept run through to the new jet and clogged it?
Good luck.


�That was one of my theories, near the mustard coloured stuff

But...
I explained nigh the mustard coloured stuff to the saleslady, and have no idea what message was passed onto the Gas Fitter

From the gas bottles to the fridge, the gas line goes under 2 chassis rails, leaving two "U" loops
I will assume that if the gas line was cleaned out, at the service, so the mustard coloured stuff, which may have been sitting in the "U" loops, is no longer there

The piezo ignition has always worked, as I could ever feel the rut of the flame at the exhaust pipe in the vent

I appreciate your input, Andy

Edited to say that at the 39th hour the temperatures are
Freezer minus 19.ane�C
Fridge iv�C
Ambience temperature in motorhome 12.1�C

-- Edited by Tony Bev on Thursday 5th of October 2022 11:55:43 AM

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Sorry for belatedly answer Tony\Bev.

Yes. That indicate. chemical element under. was around $125 from memory.

I've only had Roadstar for concluding 25ish yrs. (b4 this petty Coromal)

Their iii ways were held back behind sid covering boards.

Unscrew covers Slide information technology out.

Repair. push dorsum. Simple.

The Waeco Compressor units slid direct into place also.�

Covering strips rescrewed.

---------------�

If people ownership new motorhomes or needing a fridge.

Repair
eplace\ update,whatsoever

I don'r know why they don't but install a Compressor unit.
More efficient under wider temp ranges.
and seeing as most carry Solar. (Or should be)
They run themselves.

NEVER demand to touch on them. ANYWHERE.

Same pricing for equiv sizes too (or were)
Factory seconds avail, as are 2d hand.

Those 3 manner are soooo obsolete nowadays.
Just like those "Caravan" Air cond's.

NOO gas leaks. Blockages of gunk.

NOO Non getting down to, or holding temp's on 12v.

NOO needing 240 to get them down to anywhere decent.

Some people should think about them. seriously.

-- Edited by macka17 on Thursday fifth of October 2022 ten:02:30 PM

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macka17 wrote:

Sorry for late answer Tony\Bev.

Yeah. That point. element under. was around $125 from retentiveness.

I've but had Roadstar for last 25ish yrs. (b4 this lilliputian Coromal)

Their 3 ways were held dorsum backside sid covering boards.

Unscrew covers Slide it out.

Repair. push back. Elementary.

The Waeco Compressor units slid straight into identify too.�

Roofing strips rescrewed.

---------------�

If people buying new motorhomes or needing a fridge.

Repair
eplace\ update,whatever

I don'r know why they don't just install a Compressor unit.
More efficient under wider temp ranges.
and seeing as most bear Solar. (Or should be)
They run themselves.

NEVER demand to bear on them. ANYWHERE.

Same pricing for equiv sizes also (or were)
Manufactory seconds avail, every bit are 2nd mitt.

Those 3 style are soooo obsolete present.
Only like those "Caravan" Air cond's.

NOO gas leaks. Blockages of gunk.

NOO Not getting down to, or holding temp'due south on 12v.

NOO needing 240 to go them downwardly to anywhere decent.

Some people should think about them. seriously.

-- Edited past macka17 on Thursday 5th of October 2022 10:02:30 PM


Thank you for your input Macca

Yes. That bespeak. element under. was around $125 from memory.

It is definitely not an electrical heating element at the banality that is the problem, as they are not used when operating on gas
If you are talking almost an element on top of the fridge
Information technology is called (I think), an electronic control complete, and they are about $460

Repair
eplace\ update,whatever

I don'r know why they don't just install a Compressor unit.

That is plan "B" if/when I throw the towel in, on this three way fridge
Strangely enough I have found, that not all 12 volt upright compressor fridges, are "T" rated

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hi Tony.
I too have a 7401 refrigerator in my van....these 7401,southward are piss poor . they have a rating of sn (sub normal) and supposed to piece of work upwards to 32c . mine quits at around 28c
no amount of fans or shade cloth etc make any difference .the install is perfect .. had lots of talks and testing past dometic . the guts replaced twice, and so told that the refrigerator was working to specs. your figures look the same as mine did and takes all night to get down to 4c and thats with the fridge full of cold stuff. ( if temps. are over 28c through the day ) I looked at getting a T rated fridge simply it was taller and required major surgery to bench tops etc, then looked at ST rated but that meant a drop downward to 90 liter and a lot of money to gain 4c ( ST work to 36c) .a compressor fridge may do the job at that place rating is not much meliorate just they can keep upwards when its warmer But they are running all of the time trying to keep upwards which ways they are power hungry, alright if you use caravan parks,, every bit I similar to costless campsite they are out, as I,thousand at my weight limit now and extra panels and batteries are off limits... I wish that you tin can sort your problem some manner,, I think with this fridge its like we are asking a piddling 4 cyl. to do the job of aV8

if yous notice some 1 to exercise a modification to information technology to upwards the rating to T please post it as I,one thousand in,,, I take had no luck in this regard
this fridge should work fine anywhere southward of Hobart.... to keep your beer from freezing

best of luck, travel condom

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I feel for you, rodden
At to the lowest degree I have a scrap of battery and solar, to requite me some options
Like yourself, I do non have the room to put a larger refrigerator in my motorhome

I shall certainly advise if I am able to repair mine, and would be over the moon if I could change it into a "T" rated refrigerator

I am however experimenting by looking at the temperature numbers, with the fridge on gas
Afterwards I shall run the refrigerator on 240 volt and by comparing the numbers, I hope that I tin eliminate some faulty part/south

There are a lot of temperatures numbers (on the net), of what dissimilar rated three way fridges will perform in

I have sent the post-obit email grade to Dometic Australia, hoping to become some numbers, direct from the horses rima oris

Honey Sir/Madam
Deplorable about no phone, (I accept given a incorrect number), every bit my married woman does non like me giving it out, due to previous unsolicited calls
I accept a RM 7401 fridge, information technology is "SN" rated.
Tin you advise if y'all make a three manner fridge of the same size, which is "T" rated.
Too could you tell me what maximum ambience temperatures your "SN", "N", "ST", and "T" rated three way fridges volition be able to perform in

Thanking you in advance for an answer, as depending on what type of fridge I buy, will dictate, my future travel destinations
Cheers�

Their answer and so far

Thanks for taking the time to consummate the grade.

Kind Regards

Dometic Australia

It is early days for me, as I exercise non accept any road trips planned until the finish of the month, and I now have a small-scale compressor chest fridge, as backup

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howdy Tony,
if it was,nt for my ENGEL car fridge I would be missing out on a lot of trips

rodden

travel safe

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I now surrender and throw the towel in, in regards to this refrigerator
It was not for lack of trying
Subsequently much research I find that in that location are 5 main parts which could go wrong, which may be of involvement to others

  1. "Cushion," (sealed unit) the office which holds the refrigerant mediums (for use of a better word) gasses, seems to exist OK, as at that place was no visible leak. Unable to find a price in Commonwealth of australia
  2. "Electronics Complete," the electrics on top of the fridge which sends the signals to the 12 volt, 240 volt and reigniter, seems to be OK. Approximately $460 plus freight
  3. "Reigniter," the part which sends the signal to the gas valve, and piezo, and so receives the bespeak from the piezo, when the flame is called-for, seems to be OK. Approximately $190 plus freight
  4. "Gas Valve," which allows and shuts downwardly the gas to the burner, appears to be OK. Approximately $230 plus freight
  5. "Gas Burner," where the flame is, which can stop some of the gas flame, appears to be OK. In my local area it was $140 for the fridge service, and the invoice says that the refrigerator was working in their workshop

The fridge works as it should until the ambience temperature gets above about xxx�C and from that point on, it is just non reliable

I removed the fridge, very difficult every bit either the wood has swelled, or the fridge sides had buckled, since it was installed
I had plans to turn information technology upside downward etc, merely I would have first had to remove the electrics on top of the refrigerator, as my hands are a bit on the clumsy side, I gave this thought a miss

I have ordered a 12 volt upright fridge, with a climate class of T+, supposed to be good for 43�C

I am not knocking this three fashion fridge, considering my brother has the same type, made in 2022, which appears to work OK, while mine was probably made in 2006

All I can say in layman speak, is that I could not observe any visible fault with any of the parts mentioned above

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Here is the RM7401 set up. RM7401L stopped on gas just. Establish that if unit works ok on 230Vac/12Vdc then most controls and electrics are serviceable. My problem was rust in gas pipes that it blew rust thru the organization and blocked the jet in the gas burner jet. (When viewed/checked u can't see thru equally it a homo fabricated spiral formed ruby jet). If one uses autogas and then clean out gas lines every 6 months & LPG annually. Clean jets + gas burner with Alcohol (methylated spirits). Tried all to a higher place merely rust had got into ruby jet so last resort i put 1 small drop of Phosphoric Acid and instantly cleared the jet on burner and started to cool unit but not skillful enough for me on 38degC solar day at -3/+xix Freezer/Fridge. Next I installed 2 fans from Jaycar YX2570 on top of fins at peak of unit of measurement on correct side and 50degC thermostat and walla now at 36degC -x/+11 deg. Of import that thermostat on left side every bit coolest place from 40 - 60deg. Fan is 12Vdc at 80ma each 20cfm, 80x80x25mm and volition brand up an angled bracket to mount 2 fans and thermostat. Then happy at present and best 73s

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Sorry for the late reply, VK5TBC

Whatsoever my problem was, it was not rust in the pipes, as I had removed the jet, and blew out the pipes with compressed air, prior to giving upwards and having a gas fridge service washed

I had built a deflector plate between the top of fridge and top outlet/inspection grill, and was using three 80 mm ball begetting computer type fans

I take removed my gas fridge, then I now no longer accept bug, to write home almost

Thank you for your imput

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As my final post on this particular thread

I had fitted an EVERCOOL Platinum 110 Litre 12/24 Volt Fridge

Information technology has lived up to its advertised promise of being a climate "T plus" rating of good for upwards to 46 C

In January 2022 at Kimba SA, it was 43 C out side, and over 46 C inside the motorhome, and with the fridge ready at two C, the beer was cold

The dominate is rapt with the refrigerator, as we never threw any food abroad

In the spirit of EXplaining, and non Lament, hither is what I thought could be the downside of this refrigerator

  • In a normal day of around up to 36 C, it cycled approximately 50% on and 50% off, in daylight hours
    I take no way of knowing what happened in the hours I was comatose
    But... at 43 outside ambience temperature it seemed to be cycling about 85% on, and fifteen% off in the hours I was awake
  • Y'all can not fit 2 litre bottles of milk in the fridge door, and so you will have to get to using ane litre bottles
  • Using wireless temperature guages, I institute common cold spots in the fridge
    With the top shelf of the door running at 2 C, the back wall of the frige was showing minus ii C
    This meant that sometimes the butter was a chip hard, simply by crikey the beer was common cold

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Tony

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Tony,
Do the compressor frigs also get rated like the iii Way Friges eg T, Southward, SN ect ?

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JP

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KMMA wrote:

Tony,
Practise the compressor frigs also get rated like the 3 Way Friges eg T, S, SN ect ?


�Yes, KMMA

Compressor fridges are climate rated the same equally a three way fridge

They are rated on their ability to go along the within of the fridge absurd, while the outside is a certain temperature

Practice non quote me on this equally I am only going from memory

"S" rating means that the fridge will work OK up to about 28�C
"N" rating means that the refrigerator will work OK up to about 34�C
"T" rating means that the fridge will piece of work OK up to virtually 42�C

My EvaKool fridge has a rating of "T+" (Tee plus) which is better than "T" rating

Beware that I have seen el cheapo 12 volt compressor fridges on Gumtree, and EBay with a climate rating of "Due south and Due north and T" rating
I am not certain what this means, (having three unlike ratings for the aforementioned refrigerator), and I therefore assume that the sellers, practise not know what it means

Hope that this info is helpful to you lot

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Tony

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Yippee our 12v has a "T" rating. Cheers for that info Tony, now this is my final comment on this thread �smile

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How To Repair Domrtic Fridge Rm 2811 Will Not Switch To Gas,

Source: https://thegreynomads.activeboard.com/t63966187/gas-fridge-dometic-rm-7401-problems/

Posted by: reedphim1968.blogspot.com

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